When my husband told me this year's SVG Open conference was going to be held in Paris, we knew we had to stay on to explore the city. Having been there this past May and eating my way through the sweet shops, I decided this time we'd concentrate on museums and gardens.

I arrived by train on Thursday and made my way to the hotel we had booked. The location was convenient, but the walls were as thin as paper and we could hear everything our neighbors did and said. After changing into a t-shirt (luckily I had packed some as it was sunny and warm), I grabbed my map and off I went. I had 4 hours to explore and go shopping on my own, before meeting my husband.

Our hotel wasn't very far from the Seine and the Ile de St. Louis where the Berthillion ice cream parlor is. It being such a hot day, I treated myself to a scoop of mango and a scoop of coconut. All the ice cream is freshly made and you never know what they will have. At home I had decided on two flavors I wanted to try, but neither was being offered. I guess I must return.

Doing research before going to Paris, I read Pia Jane Bijkerk's most recent posts on Paris and made of list of places I might want to go to. She recommended a paper store called "Melodies Graphique" that isn't far from Bertillion, so I went there next. Not that I need any more paper or cards to add to my collection! I found 4 beautiful postcards of Paris which I bought to send.

And from there I wandered around an area I had never been before, slowly making my way past the Place des Voges and to the Merci department store. Check out this post for pictures. I always shy away from taking pictures in stores and restaurants.

Place des Voges

My last stop was at the Caroll clothing store where I was lucky enough to find a skirt and top. It was so warm the next few days that I wore the skirt every day instead of the pants I had brought.

The next morning we took the metro to Gare d'Austerlitz since I remembered the metro station being something I wanted to photograph. From there we walked to the Jardin des Plants (Botanical Garden). As soon as we stepped into  the garden and walked a few meters beyond the trees, it was quiet. There was the patter of joggers' feet and the spray of sprinklers watering the plants. So peaceful in such a busy city.

Gare d'Austerliz

Jardin des Plantes

After leaving the garden, we walked to the Panthéon. We couldn't decide if we should pay the fee to go in or not. If we were to visit several museums, it would quickly  become expensive if we had to pay around €8 every time we entered. We decided to buy a 2-day museum pass so we could go to various museums- and cut in line! In the end it was worth it. The Panthéon is an amazing building and imagining all the hours of work going into it is dizzying. My husband noted that such a building would be impossible to pay for today.

Panthéon

We were starting to get hungry, so we thought it would be a good idea to get lunch. My initial idea was to go to the Poilâne bakery, get a sandwich and eat in the Jardin du Luxembourg. Turns out, the bakery only sells bread by the loaf, cookies and some tarts.  BUT, right next door is the "Cuisine de Bar" a small café which serves tartines (open-faced sandwiches). We decided to each order the "formule" which was a small salad, a tartine of our choice and coffee. I chose the sardine tartine with aged vinegar and my husband went for the smoked salmon with lemon cream. Both were absolutely delicious and the bread is a dream. We were seated right next to the dessert buffet which consisted of 3 tarts. During our entire lunch my husband was eyeballing the one with purple fruit, which we decided must be plum. When our coffee came, he ordered a slice of the purple one which turned out to be fresh fig. And oh my. That tart was heaven. I definitely have to recreate that one!

After lunch we made reservations for the following night at "Le Timbre" which I will describe in detail in a separate post. From there we walked to the Jardin du Luxembourg. Again I was amazed at the peacefulness which  comes just by stepping off the street. I could have stayed there for hours, lounging in the chairs and looking at all the beautiful flowers.

So where to next? We had bought a museum pass so we might as well use it. We took the metro to the Musée Rodin to see the artist's famous sculptures. Sculptures are exhibited in the garden surrounding the villa as well as in the villa itself. I was very excited. In all my art classes at school I learned about Rodin and saw pictures of his sculptures, but I had yet to enjoy them in real life. In there garden you will find, among others, The Thinker, The Gates of Hell and The Burghers of Calais. Inside my favorite was The Kiss. But only because I have been wanting to see it ever since I first heard about it. The other sculptures in the exhibit are all equally spectacular.

Right across the street from the museum is Les Invalides, which houses a military museum and a hospital and retirement home for war veterans. We used our pass to see Napoleon Bonaparte's last resting place. Poor man, stuck in a huge sarcophagus in a huge and richly decorated building, when all he wanted was his ashes to be scattered along the Seine.

Dinner was a very atypical affair as we had sushi at a small place right around the corner from our hotel.

The following day we met up with a friend we see every year at the conference and spent the day together exploring. First stop was the Eiffel Tower. I had walked up part of the way many years before, but this time we took the elevator to the top. My husband and our friend wanted to to that and I was game. Unfortunately it was very hazy and we didn't get such good views. Guess we'll have to go again...

From there we walked along the Seine to Fouchon for our luxury lunch. Luxury since it was expensive but oh so good. We carried our bags back to the Tuileries were we found a bench in the shade to enjoy our food.

When I was in Paris in May, we thought about going to the Musée d'Orangerie to see Monet's waterlilies, but then decided against it. This time I dragged the two men into the exhibit. Luckily, they enjoyed it. But who wouldn't? Large oval rooms, quiet music, whispering visitors and the large paintings Monet is most famous for. I was in awe.

After a bit of culture, I lead the men to Pierre Hermé and Jean-Paul Hévin to buy myself a sweet something. And I wasn't disappointed. Then I guided them over to the Opéra. I had had hopes of going in with our museum pass, but once there I we were told that we had to buy separate tickets. I was sad that I wouldn't be seeing the inside and had a bad conscience for dragging the other two over there and not go in. I made up for it by suggesting a visit to Ste. Chapelle and the Consiergerie.

Sainte Chapelle is a dream and I encourage every visitor to go in. When you walk into the chapel, you are on the bottom floor, once for the "regular" worshipers. I thought that area was royal enough. Dark walls and little light. The upper floor reserved for the royals, high ceilings with unbelievably pretty stained glass windows. And take a moment to look at the floor. There are signs asking visitors to whisper, but no one pays attention to that. It makes me sad. Especially in such a beautiful chapel. Quietness would enhance the beauty even more.

The Consiergerie played an important role during the French Revolution and it's amazing to look and and read all about what happened there. Being a former prison, cells are shown how you would lodge according to the size of your wallet. This was often the last stop before the guillotine.

Our last day in Paris was spent being typical tourists walking along the Seine and taking a boat ride. We enjoyed looking at the town from the water and would definitely take the boat ride again, next time in the evening. Then we wondered around the Louvre courtyard, before having a picknick lunch in the Tuilleries and then heading back to the hotel for our luggage. From there it was to the train station and then home.

We had a wonderful time, saw many things and can't wait to return again this May.