I had too many sweets today. Yes, I'm stressed and all I can think about right now is the big move. But when I'm stressed I don't stuff myself with sweets. Maybe a piece or two of chocolate, but that's it. And since I only eat dark chocolate, I don't really consider it a sweet. Besides, dark chocolate is good for you!

No, I had too many sweets today because I took a day off of packing and had a fun day with my sister- eating sweets. Yes, we went overboard, but it was fun. For my birthday my sister gave me a voucher for Afternoon Tea at The Dolder Grand and today we went. But first we decided to spend some time around downtown Zurich. After going to the Orell Füssli English Bookstore and the other usual haunts, we looked at our watches and saw that we had two hours to kill. My sister had the brilliant idea to go try out the Ladurée shop which opened last week. Before we went in we decided that we would buy 4 macarons. The little shop is very cute, and it's fun to look around and at all the goodies. After deciding on 2 hazelnut, one pistachio and one caramel fleur de sel, we left. After walking out of the store, we thought that in order to decide if they were better than the macarons (Luxemburgerli) that Sprüngli makes, we had to compare them then and there. Luckily there are several Sprüngli shops around Zurich, so we didn't have to walk far before entering the next one. There we bought a caramel fleur de sel, a pistachio and a hazelnut. The lady behind the counter said there was room for one more. My sister had already been eyeballing the latest, seasonal Luxemburgerli, which is sesame and honey, so I told her to go ahead and get that.  They were giving out tastes of that, so I took one to try. After taking pictures, we took out bounty to Hiltl, one of my favorite restaurants and ordered something to drink before starting on our macaron critique.

The Ladurée macaons are more colorful than the Sprüngli Luxemburgerli.

They are also larger than the Luxemburgerli.

Which means more to eat, when bitten into.

But the taste is totally different. Is it because the Ladurée macarons are made in Monaco, frozen and then shipped to Switzerland, while the Luxemburgerli are made fresh every day near Zurich? The Ladurée macarons are much sweeter, chewier and more "artificial" tasting. The Luxemburgerli are like a small, delicately flavored, not too sweet bite of air. Whereas after eating one Ladurée macaron, you already had a sugar overdose and your teeth were sticking together, it is possible to eat 2 or the perfect 4 to a box Luxemburgerli. The Ladurée macarons are priced at about 12 CHF per 100g and the Luxemburgerli at 10.90 CHF per 100g. I also find it nicer to open a small box with a note stuck to the top, encouraging me to enjoy the Luxemburgerli right now.

After our taste test, it probably would have been a good idea to end the eating of sweets, but I had made a reservation for the Afternoon Tea at The Dolder Grand and besides, we were looking forward to it. The best way to reach the exclusive hotel overlooking Zurich is to take the funicular which takes you right to the back door. 

The Dolder was built in 1899 and reopened in 2008, after an extensive 4-year renovation. There have been mixed reactions about the hotel after it reopened. It has been called over the top expensive, is said to have a cool atmosphere and the service marginal. When I called to make the reservation, the man at the desk seemed to be pre-occupied and not very concentrated on what I was saying, but I was willing to give the hotel a chance.

I had only once been to the hotel and that was about 7 years ago, before the renovation. I wasn't even really at the hotel either, I just walked into the lobby, peaked into the Garden Restaurant and used the restroom. I don't remember too much about that short visit, though.

We entered though the back door and walked though the new add-on and passed a three story parking structure, which was virtually empty. Why there is such a need for so many parking spots, is something I can't fathom. The first thing we noticed was the smell. It smelled faintly of a flower we couldn't describe, but we decided it was a smell we both really liked. On we walked, past a ballroom, and then we finally entered the front hall. There are signs all over the place with arrows pointing in various directions, but it's still easy to not know where to go. So I walked up to what I thought was the front desk, to ask where the Afternoon Tea was served, and they pointed me in the right direction. But it wasn't the front desk, as we later found out, it was the concierge. Isn't the front desk supposed to be in the front hall? It turned out the front desk is in the lobby, which is also where the tea is served. At the front desk, I again mentioned I had made a reservation and they sent me over to another desk where we were to wait to be seated. Some one came and for the third time I mentioned my reservation. After a few minutes someone led us to our table next to the window. Whew- that was a small ordeal.

What were we expecting? We weren't too sure, but we both thought it would be served at a table with white linens. Instead, we were seated at low tables, which would have been more appropriate for a glass of wine or something else to drink, but not necessarily to eat at. But the dishes were pretty and it was prettily set. I ordered Early Gray and my sister Nana mint. The first thing which was brought were scones with jam and cream.

There were two vanilla scones and two with raisins. The jams were orange and blackberry. The scones didn't have the traditional shape and I always think traditional scones as being served with strawberry jam and clotted cream, but I have to say, the ones we had were very good. Probably the best thing of the entire tea. Next was a small selection of treats.

The bottom plate: Mushroom and truffle "tiramisu", pear bread with brie and a cinnamon walnut, and mini-cornbread with cranberry relish.

The middle plate: Egg sandwich with smoked salmon, tuna sandwiches, and prosciutto crostini.

Top plate: Brownies, florentines, apricot and some unidentified jellies, and pineapple cream truffle.

By the time we reached the top we had already had too much, so it's hard to say something about the dessert plate, except that the pineapple cream truffles were good. The brownies were on the dry side and had a gingerbread taste to them. Kind of a problem, if you have a brownie recipe you like and swear by.  I didn't try the jellies, since I don't like them and the florentines were very buttery.

The bottom plate was a little strange. The "tiramisu" tasted like truffles and mushrooms, but had an acidic taste to it. Probably something that was in the cream topping. The corn bread was on the dry side. I enjoyed the pear bread slices topped with brie.

The middle plate was the best. I passed on the prosciutto crostini, but my sister said they were good. I don't like egg sandwiches, but these were the best I ever had. Tuna is my favorite fish, but due to over-fishing I refuse to buy or order it. I had a bad conscience eating the sandwiches, but it was by far the best thing in the selection.

We both decided we could put a more "English" selection of tea time goodies together, seeing that the cucumber and watercress sandwiches were missing! Still we enjoyed it very much.

The service while we were there was good and we didn't have anything to complain about. We did notice that there was an over-population of young Germans on the staff. While I don't have a problem with that, I did find it unusual. The restrooms. I like to check out the restrooms at the places I go to. Often times the restroom is an afterthought and not much is done in the way of decoration and comfort. I tend to give a point more or two if I feel comfortable the restroom. The women's restroom is decorated in a subtle dark pink and charcoal color. The stalls are not too small and not huge. (I don't like to get lost in them.) The sinks are well lit with a flattering light and the powder table had fragrant bouquets of white and light pink hyacinths. I had a good feeling while in there. As for the rest of the hotel, or that what I saw of it, I found it tastefully renovated and it didn't have to cool atmosphere which has been mentioned. Oh, and the prices. Yes, it's very expensive.

Thank you sis for a great birthday gift!